The 50s had jello salad, the 70’s had fondue, the 80’s had pasta salad, and the 10s were ruled by avocado toast, but the past few years have been commandeered by, not so much a dish, as a vehicle—“Boards” have this generation in a chokehold. 

From butter boards to fruit-cuterie platters, the internet comes up with something new to stick on a plank every other day, but where did this infatuation come from? Who made it a thing and are we doing it right? What actually is charcuterie? Because it definitely isn’t your Triscuits and cheddar on a big plate. 

The History: Preservation Meets Necessity

The story of charcuterie really begins during prehistoric times, and it goes like this—Once upon a time, humans discovered that salt could preserve meat making it edible for longer, so they…did. The end.

Of course, the complexity comes in later. In Ancient Rome, the term "salsamentum" was used for salted meats. 

Trivia: The word "salary" actually comes from the Latin "salarium," meaning "salt money," since Roman soldiers were sometimes paid in salt.Then during the medieval times, charcuterie evolved from merely being a means of preservation into an actual culinary art.

In 15th century France, the term "charcuterie" emerged, derived from "chair" (flesh) and "cuit" (cooked). That said, while the term "charcuterie" is French, the practice of curing/preserving meat is a global one. 

• Italy: Prosciutto, salami, and mortadella

• Spain: Chorizo and jamón ibérico

• Germany: Variety of wursts and smoked hams

• Eastern Europe: Hungarian salami and Polish kielbasa

The Science: The Chemistry of Curing

What happens during the curing process? Essentially—Salt draws water out of the meat cells and harmful bacteria, inhibiting their growth (TBT to learning about osmosis in school—that’s what is at play here). The meat proteins change, improving texture and helping to retain moisture.

Nitrates form (or are added via celery juice powder) which prevent the growth of Clostridium botulinum and contribute to flavor and color. Many dry-cured sausages rely on fermentation for their distinct taste and texture, so the lactic acid bacteria then converts sugars into lactic acid, lowering pH and preventing growth of other harmful bacteria.How mold works? Essentially‚—The white powdery coating on some salamis is…mold.

Penicillium nalgiovense is often intentionally introduced to protect cured meat against harmful bacteria and contribute to flavor. Much like the aforementioned acids and nitrates, this mold also helps regulate moisture loss during the drying process.

What happens during the smoking process? Essentially—Smoke contains phenols and aldehydes, which have antimicrobial properties. And the drying effect of smoke creates a barrier against bacteria on the meat's surface. The end.

Healthy preservation meets flavor and science. No matter what preservation method you decide to go for, the delicate dance comes when you need to regulate the temperature, humidity, and time. Different meats thrive in different environments and most get better with age. If it’s too dry, your salami could get too hard, but if it’s too humid, harmful mold could grow. Prosciutto di Parma is aged at a controlled temperature for at least 400 days, some for up to 36 months!

Tips for Building the Perfect Charcuterie Board

• Balance is key. Mix textures and include both hard and soft meats and cheeses.

• Include a variety of flavors. Combine mild options like prosciutto with bolder choices like aged salami.

• Think about pairings that enhance. Add nuts, fruits, pickles, and other colorful additions to provide flavor contrast and palate cleansers.

• Remove meats from the refrigerator 30-60 minutes before serving to enhance flavors.

• Keep soft cheeses cool to maintain their texture, but temper them after taking them out of the fridge.

• Use a variety of shapes and sizes for visual appeal.

• Provide appropriate serving utensils for each item.

• Pair light wines with delicate meats like prosciutto and bold reds complement aged, fermented sausages.

PS - Have you tried the new charcuterie game on Pepper? Respond to this email with the favorite item on your board, and we’ll choose some lucky winners to receive a year of Pepper+ for free!

You Keep Saying “Umami?”

“Ok, but earlier you were talking about rot and decay and mold and fermentation?? Aren’t you supposed to eat food that hasn’t gone bad?”

Yes, kind of, but not really…A few weeks ago we dove into the ins and outs of taste versus flavor and what the big five tastes are—sweet, salty, sour, bitter, and umami. That 5th taste, umami, is essentially the taste of “delicious decay.” Let me explain.

Picture this: It's 1908, and a Japanese chemist named Kikunae Ikeda is sitting down to eat a bowl of dashi (traditional Japanese soup). The broth has a savory, meaty flavor that he can’t quite place. The flavor ended up being that of glutamate. He names this new taste "umami," which roughly translates to "deliciousness" in Japanese. That said, it wasn't until 2002 that Western scientists finally admitted that umami was a distinct taste, with its own unique receptors on our tongues. But what does umami have to do with rot and fermentation and why is it so satisfying?

The scientific explanation is that fermentation is controlled decay, dominated by beneficial microorganisms that preserve and enhance the food and rotting is uncontrolled decay, where harmful microorganisms break down the food in ways that make it unsafe and unpalatable.

Umami happens at the sweet spot of decay where aging equals flavor. Umami is composed of glutamates (amino acids that are the building blocks of proteins) and nucleotides (the building blocks of DNA and RNA). When these compounds bind to specific receptors on our tongues, they trigger reactions that our brains interpret as the umami taste.

A good example of this is dry-aged steak. It costs so much more than regular steak because you have to factor in the additional time that is spent on drying it and concentrating and adding umami flavor. This also occurs in—

• Aged cheeses (especially Parmesan)

• Tomatoes (especially sun-dried)

• Mushrooms (particularly shiitake)

• Soy sauce

• Cured meats

• Seaweed

• Green tea

Cheese is the ultimate example of the magic of controlled decay, but a surprising one is fish. When you order sushi, you’re probably not commenting on the “freshness” of the fish. Actually, if the fish was totally fresh, it probably would be a bit rubbery and flavorless. Most sushi fish goes through an "aging" or "curing" process before it hits your plate. This allows enzymes to break down muscle fibers, improving texture of the fish and developing the flavor compounds, enhancing the taste. Proper curing techniques also help kill potential parasites, making the fish safer to eat raw.

See you next week!

Xx,

Saanya