As with most good things, the story of Charlemagne's favorite cheese begins with a kid who had a crush. That cheese then went on to win awards, enhance steak, and even save lives. Today we’re diving into the curious (and pungent) history of Roquefort and then making a seasonal pasta that folds the cheese into the noodles themselves.

What is Roquefort?

Roquefort is a white, crumbly, semi-soft, blue-veined cheese made from unpasteurized sheep’s milk in France’s Roquefort-sur-Soulzon region. The best Roquefort is made at the end of milking season, in May and June, when the ewes graze on the freshest grass. It then must be matured for at least 90 days. This is why you see the most Roquefort on menus in the winter, around Christmastime—perfect, considering it’s rich, salty, tangy flavour profile.

The legend of the “regal rot”

Once upon a time, on the Combalou Mountain in southern France, a young shepherd’s eyes wandered across a field and spotted a pretty girl. Distracted by her breathtaking beauty, he chased after her, abandoning his flock and his lunch in the cave. Forgotten, the sheep grazed on and his meal, a loaf of bread and some ewe’s milk curds, began to mold. Weeks later he returned to the cave and found the curds marbled with green veins. Too hungry and tired to pay the mold any mind, he took a bite. The magic of the cave (which we now call Penicillium roqueforti) had created a new cheese—Roquefort—named for the region of its creation.

Roquefort remains one of the oldest known cheeses and still must be made from raw milk from Lacaunes’ ewes and aged for at least three months in the limestone caves of the Roquefort region to be awarded the name. Though an exceptionally popular cheese, each Lacaune sheep only produces 16 gallons of milk, so the flavor is a rarer delicacy in the world of blue cheeses. Luckily, due to its pungent taste and smell, a little goes a long way.

What makes it special

…besides the fact that it just tastes really really good.

The mold

Roquefort is identified by its distinctive blueish, green veins. This is the mold that gives it its pungent flavour and is a product of Penicillium roqueforti. Like its name suggests, it was initially used in place of penicillin to treat early infections like gangrene. There are still some antibiotic properties in the cheese. This mold grows best in the damp, cool caves of the Roquefort region.

The status

Similar to champagne which can only come from the Champagne region of France to hold the name (otherwise it’s just sparkling wine), Roquefort was the first cheeses to be awarded a “Protected Status” in 1925. It later got its AOC (Appellation d'Origine Contrôlée) so, for the past century, Roquefort has had to be aged in the Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon.

The celebrity

Along with being Charlemagne’s favourite cheese, Roquefert was also beloved by Napoleon Bonaparte. He would go so far as to request it during military campaigns. The French philosopher, Diderot, even called it “The King of the Cheeses.”

How is it made?

Ok, time for 30-Second Science (really, I just find this fascinating so need a moment to nerd out).

Roquefort is a product of its environment, and its environment is a product of Fleurines. “Fleurines are cracks in the rock and after the limestone plateau collapsed, the rocks formed cavities, caves, and passageways. The Roc du Combalou in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon produced tunnels that transport cold, moist air from the outside, into the caves.”

It’s this damp air that helps foster the mold, but it doesn’t happen alone. The temperature of the air is regulated by someone who opens and closes the tunnel’s windows and doors in order to control the heat level and humidity. After all that, tiny needles are stabbed into each cheese to let some air in to promote the growth of the mold and let it ferment. Then, a little bit of salt is added to help preserve and moisturize the cheese. And finally, the rounds are left to ripen for two to three weeks and aged somewhere cold for 3 months to a year.

How to enjoy it

Roquefort is a strong flavour on its own, but also has somewhat surprising ability to compliment and enliven other flavors nicely.

• When picking a wine, there are two directions that you could go in. Either opt for a sweeter white like a Sauternes or Riesling or go for a tannic, full-bodied red like a Malbec or a Cabernet Sauvignon.

• Crumble some in a salad with arugula, pear, and walnuts. The buttery sweetness of the pear is a perfect compliment to the cheeses forceful flavour.

• Add some on top of your steak to make it even more decadent. It melts well and can enhance the aged flavors in many cuts of meat.

• Eat it alongside dark chocolate. The bitter richness of dark chocolate can complement the sharp, salty, tanginess of Roquefort.

• Enjoy it while sipping on a glass of Scotch. Smoky, peaty drinks can hold their own against the boldness of Roquefort.

• Pair it with figs or fig jam on a cracker. The sweet-savory contrast is to die for. Which leads us to…

Fig & Roquefort Tagliatelle with a Citrus-Rosemary Beurre Blanc

Ingredients:

• 2 cups of flour

• 2 eggs and 2 egg yolks

• Water

• Salt and pepper

• Figs (we used dried, but fresh or canned would bring an added level of freshness)

• Roquefort

Sauce:

• 12 tablespoons of butter

• Lemon zest and 1/8 cup of juice

• Orange zest and 1/8 cup of juice

• 1 shallot

• Salt and pepper

• 1/2 cup of dry white wine

• 2 sprigs of rosemary

Check out the @justsoiree TikTok and Instagram for a video on how we made it!

What kind of pasta should we make next?

Xx,

Saanya